Snippets of conversation overheard at Lumpkin's Restaurant in Scottsville, Va.: "You cut the hay just in time." "What you all dressed up for, Gary? Funeral?" Lumpkin's, a local institution for fifty-some years with a larger-than-human-size white chicken statue out front, is a comfort-food place where everybody seems to know everybody else. A sign reads, "Home Cooking: You'll Eat It and You'll Like It." And I did. Warm peach cobbler ($1.75) melted on my tongue. Lumpkin's had made eight kinds of pie that day, including ... (more)